CZ P-09 Complete Disassembly
Here are a few disassembly tips for the CZ P-09:
Put the parts on the bench-top in groups and in an order that makes sense for reassembly.
Like many guns, a lot of these springs want to jump. Be sure to let spring tension off slowly and cover springs when removing punches. This should prevent you from losing small parts. Trying to search for those in your shop is like finding a needle in a haystack.
You probably don’t need to remove the two steel sections of the frame. There’s not a good reason to and removing those pins can cause wear in your frame. However, if you would like to know how, I’ve detailed it in Step 7.
Before getting started, make sure you have the following tools:
Screwdriver Set
Punch Set
Nylon/Brass Hammer
Bench Blocks/Hockey Pucks with Drilled Hole
Pick and Hook Set
Needle Nose Pliers
Plastic Tip Aluminum Punch
* Disclaimer: I don’t know the name of every part on this gun so if you need a reference please use this parts diagram: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/cz/auto-pistols-cz/75-series-cz/parts-list-cz-75
Step 1: Field Strip
Step 1.2 : Matching the lines on the frame and slide.
Remove the magazine and make sure it’s unloaded.
Match up the line on the back of the frame (on the left side of the gun) with the line on the slide and push the takedown pin out. You can use the magazine, but it could scratch the gun. So I prefer to use a punch to push it out. You could also tap it out with a hammer.
Now take the slide off the front of the frame, but make sure to keep your thumb on the recoil spring to prevent it from flying off. Remove the recoil spring. It comes out like most other semi-auto pistols.
If it’s a threaded barrel, take the thread protector off.
Remove the barrel.
Step 2: Sight Removal
Punch placement when removing the front sight
Loosen the rear set screw. Then loosen the front set screw using a .050 Allen key. You don’t have to loosen these all the way; a couple turns should do.
With the slide in the vise, use a hammer and punch to remove the rear sight. I would suggest using a plastic tip aluminum punch or an aluminum punch. If you only have a steel punch, be very careful and make sure it doesn’t have rough edges.
Using the plastic tip aluminum punch again, carefully remove the front sight. The front sight has a tritium vial with glue protruding. You don’t want to hit that or else it will leave a line. And don’t hit the set screw—this will mess up the threads.
Step 3: Slide Disassembly
Using a bench block, pound the extractor pin in the rear of the top of the slide out from top down. There’s a spring holding in the extractor so make sure to use your thumb to prevent it from springing out.
While removing the punch, hold the extractor down. Gently let the spring tension off.
To remove the extractor, tilt it up and move it forward until it clears the channel. Then lift it up and out.
Remove the extractor spring and its spring guide.
Punch out the firing pin retaining pin. This is a roll pin so be sure to use the proper size punch. It will uncoil if the punch is too small.
While removing the punch, catch the firing pin by placing your thumb over it. The prevents it from springing out.
To completely remove the firing pin, push the firing pin safety block down. This will release the firing pin.
Remove the firing pin safety block and its spring.
Remove the firing pin spring. Sometimes you can dump it out. Otherwise, use your punch to dig it out of the firing pin hole.
Step 3.3: Make sure to clear the channel before removing the extractor
Step 4: Decocker Disassembly
Hold the hammer back with your pointer finger while pushing down on the ejector with your thumb. Make sure the decocker is in the neutral position—the flat on the decocker should be parallel with the ledge of the frame. This should allow you to pull the decocker pin out from the left side of the gun. Be careful while removing it, cover the top to prevent the spring from flying away.
Remove the sear spring.
Let the pressure of the hammer off.
On the right side of the gun, push the decocker switch down to expose the red dot. From this position, you should be able to slide the other side of the decocker out.
To remove the ejector, slowly pull it out. Be careful because the spring under it likes to fly out. Cover it with your finger and allow the the ejector come up and out slowly. Remove the spring.
Using a punch, push out the sear pin from right to left. To remove it, you’ll need to pull the hammer back enough to take the pressure off of the sear. When you remove the punch, the sear will want to come out. Cover it with your finger and pull the punch out slowly.
Underneath the sear is a spring. Remove it.
Push the trigger bar down and rotate the decocking disconnector lever up. While the lever is up, pull both it and the hammer back just slightly and push the hammer pin out with a punch.
Step 4.8: Pull the lever and hammer back to remove the hammer pin
Step 5: Main Spring Disassembly
We could’ve started the frame disassembly with the main spring. But we are doing it today as Step 5. To remove the hammer, we need to remove the main spring first. Push in on the main spring housing. and using a punch, push the pin on the side of the frame down and out.
The hammer should slide out the top of the gun. The hammer has a pin which staked and pressed in. I wouldn’t suggest removing it because you don’t want it to be loose. It can cause malfunctions. Only take it out if you are replacing the hammer and make sure to also replace that pin.
Step 6: Trigger Disassembly
Remove the spring holding in the trigger bar. Push it down with a punch and it will pop off of the trigger bar. Pull straight up to remove it.
Take out the trigger return spring and trigger. Use a punch to push on the trigger pin from the left to the right of the gun. When you pull the pin punch out, cover the trigger return spring. It wants to fly out.
Dump out the trigger and the trigger return spring.
Step 6.1: Releasing the trigger bar spring
Step 7: Final Frame Disassembly
Pound out the roll pin on the frame that’s closes to the trigger. This will enable you to take out the metal section of the frame above the trigger. I wouldn’t suggest taking this part out unless you’re painting or cleaning under it.
Once you’ve pounded the pin out, hook your punch in the part and pull it out.
There’s a spring in this part. You can take it out by pounding the pin from outside to inside. The pin is tiny—don’t lose it. Cover the spring when removing the punch so that you don’t lose it. After pounding the pin out, you can remove the spring by dumping it out, or if you need, use a pick to pull it out. Again, this isn’t a part you would need to take out for any reason.
Now, we need to remove the steel section in the rear of the frame. Pound out the pin in smallest hole toward the back of the frame. Hook your punch and pry the part out. Again, you shouldn’t need to take this part out for cleaning or for functionality.
Realistically, you don’t need to and probably shouldn’t be removing either of those two steel sections of the frame. Removing those roll pins from the frame can cause damage over time. Every time you put a pin through a tight fitting hole, it gets looser. And we don’t want it to fall out or cause malfunctions.
Finally, we need to remove the magazine catch. There’s a hole in the right side of the gun on the magazine release, and there’s a pin inside the frame which holds the magazine release in. Because the hole in the magazine release is small, I usually use a pick to push in. While pushing in, grab the pin out from inside the frame with a pliers. Dump the magazine release out.
Inside the magazine release, push the detent out of the way with your pick to remove the pin. Dump the detent and spring out of the magazine catch or push it out with the pick.
Step 7.7: Disassembling the magazine catch
That’s how to completely disassemble a CZ P-09. We hope you found this video and explanation useful. If you have any questions, please comment below. Thanks for reading!